Plaza de Colón Madrid sits at one of those intersections where three districts meet, creating a space that feels both grand and oddly utilitarian. I've walked through here countless times, and it's one of those places that grows on you rather than hitting you with immediate charm.

The square takes its name from Christopher Columbus, though it wasn't always called that. Until 1893, locals knew it as Plaza de Santiago. The Columbus monument dominates the western side – a 17-meter neo-Gothic structure built between 1881 and 1885. The actual statue on top, carved from Italian white marble by Jerónimo Suñol, stands three meters tall. It's impressive enough, though I find the base more interesting with its stone reliefs by Arturo Mélida.

What really catches your eye, though, are those peculiar Torres de Colón. These twin towers, built between 1967 and 1976, were actually constructed from top to bottom – an unusual engineering approach that makes for good conversation. The burgundy glass panels and that distinctive green superstructure give them a retro-futuristic look that divides opinion. They're currently being renovated, which says something about how Madrid treats its modern architectural heritage.

The eastern side opens up into the Jardines del Descubrimiento, where you'll find Joaquín Vaquero Turcios's concrete sculptures commemorating the discovery of America. These massive blocks with their reliefs and inscriptions feel very much of their 1970s moment. The Royal Mint used to occupy this spot until 1970, which explains why the space feels purpose-built rather than organically evolved.

That enormous Spanish flag fluttering from its 50-meter pole has been there since 2001. At 14 by 21 meters, it's supposedly the world's largest Spanish flag, though I suspect these records get broken regularly. The replacement cost of €400,000 in 2016 raised a few eyebrows.

The square works as a gathering point during major events – I've seen it packed during Christmas celebrations and Pride. Its position connecting Paseo de la Castellana with Paseo de Recoletos makes it unavoidable if you're walking Madrid's main north-south axis.

Discover all the secrets of Plaza de Colón with our complete Madrid audio guide and you'll understand how this space reflects the city's relationship with its imperial past and modernist ambitions.