You can't really understand Madrid without spending time in Plaza Mayor Madrid. I've walked through countless European squares, but there's something particularly captivating about this rectangular space that sits right in the heart of the old city, just a few minutes from Puerta del Sol.

The uniformity strikes you first. Those red buildings with their 237 balconies create an almost theatrical backdrop - which makes sense, considering this place has hosted everything from markets to bullfights to public executions over the centuries. The architecture feels deliberately grand yet somehow intimate at the same time. When I'm there early in the morning, before the tourist crowds arrive, I can almost imagine what it was like when it was called Plaza del Arrabal, back when Madrid was still finding its feet as Spain's capital.

What I appreciate most is how the plaza has evolved with the times while keeping its essential character. Built between 1580 and 1619 under Philip III (there's his statue on horseback in the center), it's been through multiple reconstructions after fires, but each time they've maintained that distinctive baroque Spanish style. The dimensions - about 129 by 94 meters - create perfect acoustics. Street musicians know this well.

The nine different entrances each tell their own story. I usually enter through the Arco de Cuchilleros on the south side, which leads down into one of Madrid's oldest neighborhoods. The contrast between the plaza's formality and the winding medieval streets beyond never fails to surprise visitors.

These days, Plaza Mayor balances its role as a living piece of history with modern city life. Locals still cross through it as part of their daily routine, tourists pause for photos, and the outdoor cafes provide decent people-watching spots, though you'll pay tourist prices for your coffee. The Sunday morning stamp and coin market brings out a completely different crowd - serious collectors who've been meeting here for decades.

Discover all the secrets of Plaza Mayor with our complete Madrid audio guide to understand the layers of history beneath your feet. The plaza works as both a destination and a starting point for exploring Madrid's old quarter, connecting you to the network of streets that have been drawing people to this spot for over four centuries.