When I first heard about Parque de El Capricho, I wasn't expecting much from a park tucked away in Madrid's northeastern Barajas district. How wrong I was. This 14-hectare triangular garden turned out to be one of the most enchanting surprises the city has to offer.

The park owes its existence to the Duchess of Osuna, María Josefa de la Soledad Alonso Pimentel, who began creating this romantic paradise in 1787. She was clearly a woman of exceptional taste and vision. What she built here feels like stepping into an 18th-century aristocratic dream, complete with whimsical follies and theatrical spaces that once entertained Madrid's elite.

Walking through the entrance, you immediately sense this isn't your typical urban park. The Reception Plaza sets the tone – apparently the duchess once held bullfights here to welcome her guests. Just beyond, the Duellists' Parterre catches your eye with two figures standing back-to-back, a nod to the era's deadly honor duels. It's theatrical, slightly macabre, and absolutely fascinating.

The vegetation here is genuinely impressive. Spring brings an explosion of color from the lilac groves and love trees, while massive oaks, pines, and cedars provide year-round structure. I spotted several red squirrels during my visit, and the birdsong is constant – apparently nightingales, woodpeckers, and various other species call this place home. There are even black swans gliding across the water features.

What makes El Capricho special is how it represents the Romantic movement's ideals. Every pathway, pavilion, and planted area was designed to evoke specific emotions or tell particular stories. The duchess wanted her guests to experience beauty, grandeur, and surprise at every turn. Even Madoz's 19th-century dictionary praised it as one of Spain's most magnificent estates, comparable to royal sites like Aranjuez.

The park only opens on weekends and holidays, which helps preserve its peaceful atmosphere but requires some planning. Discover all the secrets of Parque de El Capricho with our complete audio guide of Madrid – there's so much historical detail and symbolism that you'll miss without proper context.

After changing hands several times, Madrid's city council took over in 1974, and thankfully they've maintained its unique character. The main building is currently being restored to reopen as a museum in 2027, which should add another layer to this already rich experience.