The Museo Reina Sofía Madrid sits in what used to be an 18th-century hospital, and honestly, you can still feel that institutional weight when you walk through its corridors. The neoclassical building designed by Francesco Sabatini has this serious, almost austere presence that somehow works perfectly for housing some of Spain's most challenging modern art.

Everyone comes for Guernica, obviously. Picasso's massive anti-war statement dominates its room, and watching people's reactions never gets old. But rushing straight there would be a mistake. The museum's layout encourages you to wander, and that's exactly what you should do.

The Dalí collection here surprised me more than I expected. Sure, his surrealist pieces are striking, but seeing them alongside other Spanish artists from the same period gives you a completely different perspective on how radical these movements actually were. The temporary exhibitions often steal the show though – they rotate frequently and tend to focus on international contemporary artists that you might not encounter elsewhere in Madrid.

Those glass elevator towers on the exterior look oddly futuristic against the old hospital walls. Some people love them, others think they clash. I find them useful more than beautiful – the building is huge, and you'll appreciate any help navigating between floors.

The location works well if you're planning to visit multiple museums. It's part of Madrid's so-called Golden Triangle of Art, walking distance from both the Prado and Thyssen museums. The Atocha area can get crowded, especially near the train station, but the museum itself rarely feels overwhelming inside.

Discover all the secrets of the Museo Reina Sofía with our complete Madrid audio guide – the building's history as a hospital adds fascinating context to how the spaces work as exhibition areas today.

One thing that sets this place apart from other major art museums is how unapologetically modern it remains. While the Prado celebrates classical masters, the Reina Sofía commits fully to 20th and 21st-century art. That focus means some exhibitions can feel challenging or even uncomfortable, which seems entirely appropriate for a museum dedicated to contemporary expression.

The bookshop deserves a mention too. They stock art books and catalogs you won't find elsewhere, including detailed publications about their permanent collection that make excellent references long after your visit to Madrid ends.