
About this place
What strikes me most is how this river shaped London itself. The Romans knew what they were doing when they established their settlement here – the Thames was their highway, their lifeline. They called it Thamesis, possibly from an ancient Celtic word meaning "dark," which feels oddly fitting when you see those brown waters rolling past the Tower of London on a grey afternoon.
The river stretches 346 kilometers from its modest beginnings near Kemble in Gloucestershire all the way to the North Sea. But it's the London stretch that really tells the story. Here, you can feel the tidal pull from the sea, making the water slightly salty and creating those dramatic low-tide moments when the Thames reveals its muddy secrets along the foreshore.
Walking from Tower Bridge downstream toward Greenwich, or upstream past the Houses of Parliament, you're essentially following the same route that medieval watermen used to ferry Londoners back and forth. Before proper roads and bridges dominated the city, the Thames was London's main street. Thousands of small boats crowded these waters daily.
The river's personality changes completely depending on where you encounter it. Near Richmond, it feels almost pastoral, winding through green spaces with swans and rowing boats. But by the time it reaches the City, it becomes something entirely different – industrial, powerful, slightly ominous under the right light.
I find myself drawn to the quieter moments along the Thames. Early mornings when the mist rises off the water near Bermondsey. Late evenings when the South Bank empties out and you can hear the water lapping against the embankment walls. The river keeps flowing regardless of London's chaos above.
Discover all the secrets of the Thames with our complete audio guide of London – there are stories hidden along every bend, from Roman settlements to Victorian engineering marvels. The Thames isn't just something to cross; it's the reason London exists at all.
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Kids version available with adapted and fun language for the little ones (3 min)
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