Plaza del Campo del Príncipe sits at the heart of Granada's Realejo neighborhood, where centuries of history unfold beneath the watchful gaze of the Alhambra Palace hotel perched above. I've always found this square fascinating because it layers so many different periods of the city's past in one compact space.

The plaza occupies what was once a Muslim cemetery, then became the center of the Jewish quarter before being transformed in 1497 to celebrate the wedding of Prince Juan, son of the Catholic Monarchs. Walking across the square today, you're literally stepping over layers of Granada's complex cultural history.

The centerpiece is the Cristo de los Favores, a jasper and alabaster statue that locals paid for and installed in 1640. What strikes me about this Christ figure isn't just its craftsmanship, but the genuine devotion it still inspires. Every Good Friday at exactly 3 PM, when church bells ring across the city, crowds gather here to ask for three favors. It's one of those traditions that feels completely authentic rather than performed for tourists.

During the plague years of 1679-1682, the Realejo suffered less than other neighborhoods, and residents credited their prayers to this statue. The archbishop was so moved he granted 40 days of forgiveness to anyone praying here. You can sense that deep connection locals still have with this place.

The square really comes alive in the evenings. About eight different bars and restaurants line one side, their terraces filling up as the sun sets. The competition for the best tapas is fierce here, and since this is Granada, every drink comes with a free tapa. I've spent many evenings watching this ritual play out - the careful presentation of each small plate, the animated conversations spilling from table to table.

Behind the restaurant terraces, there's a small playground that keeps families around longer than they might otherwise stay. It's these practical details that make Campo del Príncipe feel like a real neighborhood square rather than just another tourist stop.

The narrow, cobbled streets radiating outward invite exploration of the wider Realejo district. Some visitors use an audio guide to navigate the historical layers, but honestly, wandering these streets with your eyes open teaches you plenty. The Campo del Príncipe serves as a perfect starting point for understanding how Granada's different communities have shaped this corner of Andalusia over the centuries.